Raising the Screen
I installed a piece of ¾” birch plywood which will be the top of the cabinet. This required joining two pieces of plywood to get to the 111 ½” width of the cabinet.
I cut out the hole using a Rotozip (hence the wavy cut) for the screen to go up into. The space between that I-beam and the front 2x4 of framing is about 1/8” wider than the screen.
|Hoisting the Screen
I needed to get the screen within about a foot of the bracing in the ceiling to start the threaded rods which support the screen permanently. So I came up with this rig which uses 4 pulleys from Home Depot, ropes and some other tackle. Two of the pulleys were ratcheted so they can hold the screen in place without me having to tie it all off.
|View from Behind
Here you can see the ratcheted pulleys at the top. Also the 2x4 I set up to rest the screen on. It took several tries to get everything right, so it came in handy not having to lower it all the way back down.
Like I said above, after lots of trial and error, with different parts hitting and making adjustments I finally got the screen mounted. It took me a whole week of tries and adjustments each night after work. I even had to take down the top piece of plywood a couple of times and chisel out a little framing for the electrical box on the side of the screen. But I got it all to fit without doing too much damage.
|Screen is Working
A day later I got the electrical hooked up. I have the projector interface which includes a relay in the switch box. Since the wires that were included were way too short I bought some sprinkler wire to connect the screen to the switch box. I had made a drawing of the connections, but I forgot some labeling on the circuit drawing and the included drawings were kind of confusing.
Basically everything ended up working backwards. When I pressed up the screen would go down, when I pressed down it would go up. After looking over some other drawings for the normal, non-projector switch, I realized that reversing the wires on the switch was all that was needed. Who would’ve figured that the connectors on the back of the switch were the opposite of the switch. i.e. the connector on the up side is actually live when you press down. But it all works now.